Rihanna, Natalie Portman, Jennifer Lawrence and a host of Stars and Celebrities paraded into Paris’ Rodin Museum Friday for 1 of the year’s biggest fashion spectacles: the hugely-awaited debut from Christian Dior’s 1st female designer.
Being the 1st woman to head up one of the most influential dressers of women in history Christian Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri chad to make a statement during her 1st Dior show.
Most debuts at storied fashion labels pay homage to the house core and this should especially be the case at Dior (PA:CDI), which lauded French fashion with Y 1947’s groundbreaking “New Look.”
In Friday’s show, Grazia Chiuri, the former Valentino designer, broke from the Dior DNA.
In its place was a whole “new lexicon” of style, and Grazia Chiuri gave the collection her unique stamp..
Ms. Chiuri made a creative attempt to explore gender boundaries by channeling the uniforms of fencers with quilted embroidered combat jackets, cropped sporty pants, high fashion sneakers and knee-high sneaker boots.
It was a way of highlighting the concept of gender in the Dior show given greater resonance by the fact she’s the 1st woman designing at the French house.
The gender musing continued in diaphanous tulle corsets that were described as “unoppressive” because of their loose fit.
One industry observers noted that, “The styles felt a little low-energy because of a pared-down color palette and where detailing and embroideries emerged they came across a little saccharine.
One look, a black dotted tulle and lace top, looked visually incoherent against sporty white crisp menswear pants and white strap sandals.”
Nevertheless, the designer should be praised for the ambitious effort to liberate herself creatively and to rework the Dior aesthetic.”
Veteran model/designer Milla Jovovich says the spate of new designers at the helm of Hermes, Lanvin, Saint Laurent and now Christian Dior is a “great thing”
“Anytime you’ve got fresh air into a really amazing old house, it’s always fun. It’s nice to have this new generation,” the stunning 40-year-old said from the front row at the Dior show.
“Dior took quite a long time to choose the new person, for obvious reasons. They’re such an important house. And Maria (Grazia Chiuri), I’m sure, is going to do a great job,” Ms. Jovovich added.
Isabel Marant dived into a reference book about the 1980’s for her typically sexy Spring-Summer display.
High, tight waists led the eye to round, voluminous shoulders and oversize sleeves worn by some of the moment’s hottest models. Gigi Hadid opened the show in an oversized cream coat dress.
The necessary disco minis that are synonymous with the feminine Marant made sure this collection will please her loyal clientele.
It was all about the wearable at Issey Miyake.
Loose, sack-dress hybrids highlighted by jagged shards of metallic colors inset across the body and gathered at the hem — opened the designer’s Spring-Summer show.
They contrasted nicely with the model’s sharply cut hair and the cubic geometry of Japanese “Geta” platform shoes.
Indeed, Oriental references defined much of the aesthetic from the French-Japanese house.
Oversized cross-over jackets were tied chicly at the side with thick belts and paired with baggy shorts.
But what would an Issey Miyake show be without his signature pleated techno-fabric styles?
Sure enough, they appeared toward the middle of the show, in some of the 40-piece collection’s best looks.
Abstract 3-dimensional dark blue dresses sported panels like tectonic origami, at once stiff and soft.
Have a terrific weekend.
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